Camino pilgrim opens her diary to share the journey’s challenges and blessings

Benedictine Sister Nicolette Etienne of Our Lady of Grace Monastery in Beech Grove enjoys a dish of ice cream, one of her joys during the challenging and uplifting journey on the Camino. (Submitted photo)

By John Shaughnessy

Benedictine Sister Nicolette Etienne kept a daily diary as she traveled 488 miles in 40 days on El Camino de Santiago (“The Way of St. James”) this summer with her longtime friend Peggy Elson. (Related story: Camino journey leads two women to an even closer friendship and a deeper faith)

Sister Nicolette shared her daily accounts with The Criterion—accounts which offer insights into the challenges and blessings of the pilgrimage they made from St. Jean Pied de Port, France, to the tomb of St. James at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain.

Her diary captures the God moments, the helpful strangers, the beauty of nature, the walks filled with wonder, the days set aside for laundry and rest, the joy of making new friends, and the welcomed hostels at the end of a long day of hiking.

The diary also shares the times of illness and exhaustion that led them to take a taxi or a bus during a grueling part of the Camino, so they could recoup their strength and energy for another day.

“It’s truly amazing to embrace the challenge, feeling that unique blend of exhaustion, soreness and profound peace,” notes Sister Nicolette, a member of Our Lady of Grace Monastery in Beech Grove. “And I want to thank my community for making it possible.”

From her diary, here are several slightly edited, daily accounts of their journey, which began on June 1 and ended on July 10.

Monday, June 9th
Day 9

“What a special rest day in Logroño! Exploring the charming town with our new friend Sue was delightful, but the real highlight must have been finding Mass. Walking into that beautiful cathedral just at the right time felt like a miracle, and receiving Jesus was exactly what we needed. I had tears in my eyes and joy in my heart.

“Beyond that eucharistic joy, immersing ourselves in the local festival, browsing the vibrant booths, and topping it all off with the best ice cream ever truly made our day of rest perfect.”

Tuesday, June 10th
Day 10

“Our 17.32-mile walk from Logroño to Nájera was a true test of endurance, especially with the sun beating down at 90 degrees and hardly any shade! Peggy and I were exhausted by the time we arrived, but what an incredible feeling of accomplishment to conquer another day on the Camino.

“We have found our walking rhythm, always staying within sight of each other and finding new friends to chat with along the way. We are always happy to find rest in the beautiful churches along the way. Those peaceful rests in towns and at the end of the day are incredibly appreciated. Our faith in God continues to be a source of strength for us. Buen Camino!”

Friday, June 13th
Day 13

“I think it will take the rest of my life to process all that I’ve experienced on this Camino journey, as I find it difficult to find words that adequately express how I feel when I try to put my thoughts down on paper. The language barrier has certainly been a challenge, but we’ve managed thus far!”

Saturday, June 14th
Day 14

“One of the most fascinating aspects of this journey is constantly reconnecting with pilgrims I’ve met days or even weeks ago. It’s incredible how this Camino fosters such a strong sense of community and keeps bringing me back together with my new friends.”

Thursday, July 3rd
Day 33

“Even with a later start, fueled by a delicious breakfast and the camaraderie of fellow pilgrims, Peggy and I tackled a remarkable 15.4 miles and 35,000 steps from O Cebreiro to Triacastela.

“We had a slightly extended route due to a missed sign which turned into a blessing, as a kind woman in her garden became one of the Camino’s many ‘angels,’ guiding us back to the correct path.

“It’s truly inspiring how the journey provides not only a physical challenge but also a spiritual one, with divine guidance appearing when needed most. We are grateful for all the prayers and support from our friends and family. Know of our prayers for you as well.”

Thursday, July 10th
Day 40

“The much-anticipated day has finally arrived, marking the culmination of a 40-day journey! This morning, at the crisp hour of 5 a.m., Peggy, Sue, Nerlhuys, Alice and I set off on our final 12.5-mile trek to Santiago. The weather was ideal, and though hills dotted our path, our excitement overshadowed any physical challenge. We reached Santiago before noon.

“After capturing our momentous arrival with photos, we made our way to the Pilgrims Office to receive our Compostela, the traditional Latin religious certificate verifying our completion of the Camino.

“Peggy and I, with the invaluable help of Sue and her husband [who met her in Santiago], found our hotel. After checking in, we returned to the Cathedral for a time of prayer and exploration, including a visit to the tomb of St. James.

“Tomorrow, we will begin our journey home. It will take a lifetime to process the past 40 days. It truly was a Buen Camino!” †